‘Delhi’s vastness makes it a world unto itself… a microcosm of India’s unity in diversity’: Ambassador of France to India

As a scholar, Dr Mathou’s main focus is on India-China relations and Himalayan studies. A specialist in Bhutan studies, he has written several articles and books on Bhutan in French and English and has been involved in many academic projects in this country. His wife too is involved in Bhutanese studies.

The couple has three children: Alexandra, François, and Charles. Dr Mathou speaks to The Indian Express as part of a series of interviews with Ambassadors about Delhi — their home.

Excerpts:

One place in the city that you love visiting often.

It has been now a year and a half since I took up my post in Delhi, a city that never ceases to amaze me with its great diversity and richness, both architecturally and socially, a city that has changed a lot since my first visit 40 years ago. There are many very different places in the city where my wife and I enjoy “getting lost”: Old Delhi for its labyrinths of narrow streets, its markets, its havelis and its lively atmosphere, and New Delhi for its wide, tree-lined avenues and parks. My favourite area, however, remains the complex formed by Humayun’s Tomb, one of India’s architectural treasures, particularly captivating at dusk, the magnificent Humayun’s Tomb Museum recently opened to better understand the history of the place, Sunder Nursery, a vast wilderness in the heart of the city, and the Dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin, a place that exudes deep spirituality and a sense of harmony, where you can appreciate the magic of qawwali. This combination gives Delhi the character of an eternal city. There is another, more secret place that I particularly appreciate in Delhi because it reminds me of places in the Himalayas that are dear to me: it is Majnu ka Tila – Little Tibet.

Three things that have stood out in Delhi during your stay.

Three words spontaneously come to mind when I think of Delhi: diversity, vastness and pollution.

Delhi’s diversity reflects that of the country as a whole. In fact, we could speak of “Delhis” in the plural. This diversity is not limited to the duality between Old Delhi and New Delhi. It seems to me that it is much more widespread, culturally, socially and economically. While more than 80% of the population speaks Hindi, you will also hear Punjabi, Bengali, Urdu and many other languages spoken, in addition to English of course. Not enough French for my taste! But you only have to go to the magnificent Alliance Francaise in Delhi, located next to Lodhi Gardens, to learn my mother tongue and discover French culture. Delhi is a city of immigration where you can feel that traditions and lifestyles have remained very much influenced by the cultures of neighbouring regions. The cuisine, marked by multiple influences, is also impressively rich. Architecturally, all styles are represented, from southern to northern India. Delhi is a reflection of the different phases of Indian history. This is one of the reasons why I am particularly proud that France is involved in the project of the Yuga Yugeen Bharat National Museum, which will give a new dimension to the iconic North and South Blocks. Paradoxically, coherence is born out of this plurality. It is basically the embodiment of unity in diversity, which is the very foundation of the Indian model.

Its vastness makes Delhi a world unto itself that you never stop discovering. This feeling is of course partly due to the size of its population (equivalent to half of the French population) and the extent of its territory (more than ten times that of Paris). This vastness is also driven by the connection between the territory of Delhi and the satellite cities of Gurugram and Noida. I am struck by the contrast of spaces where population densities are very different from one neighbourhood to another, and where growth has been largely organic and unforeseen due to the dynamism and attractiveness of the city.

Unsurprisingly, pollution is one of the consequences of this phenomenon. It is a matter of concern for all expatriates in Delhi, and it dissuades some from staying here. But above all, it is an issue for Indians themselves, particularly the inhabitants of Delhi, as it is a major public health issue and also a question of the economic attractiveness of their city. Pollution in Delhi is a complex problem because it has multiple origins, but it is not inevitable. Many Indian friends of my generation remember the Delhi of their childhood, where winter was the most pleasant season with fresh air and blue skies. If innovators can solve India’s problems, they can save the world. I have no doubt that India, famous for its frugal innovation, will find its answer to urban air pollution and that Delhi’s new authorities will solve this problem of the capital with the help of the government.

Memories or encounters in Delhi that you’ll never forget?

The privilege of an ambassador is to meet all kinds of people on a daily basis: artists, entrepreneurs, political leaders, community leaders, social elites. We also have the privilege of encountering multiple perspectives and unknown faces on a daily basis, some of which leave a lasting impression. I must say that India in general and Delhi, in particular, offer unique opportunities to build up a pantheon of striking faces. If I were a photographer, especially a portrait photographer, I would spend my time in Old Delhi capturing the soul of the city by fixing the gaze of its inhabitants on film. Beyond this general memory, I have met many people since my arrival, but two meetings have particularly left their mark on me to date. The first was with Maharaja Krishna Rasgotra, a living legend of Indian diplomacy with whom I have twice had the honour of dining. At 100 years and counting, Ambassador Rasgotra’s life and career is a history book that I never tire of leafing through. The second memory is my collective meeting with the Indian delegation at the Paris 2024 Paralympic Games. When I first received them at the Residence of France, I could see in their eyes that India would break records, which was the case with 29 medals, including 7 gold, 9 silver and 13 bronze. They are examples for all of us, whether abled or specially-abled, Indian or foreign, because there is a fire in their hearts, that of surpassing oneself and resilience in the face of adversity. This is often the case with the people I meet here, particularly social workers in NGOs working for child welfare or women’s empowerment, whom I admire greatly.

Favourite food in the city and any places that you visit often?

I really appreciate this question because gastronomy is in the very DNA of the French. As I have already indicated, I am impressed by the diversity of the cuisine in Delhi, which combines dishes from Haryana and Uttar Pradesh, but also from Punjab and Maharashtra and many other regions. In India, although I prefer tandoori dishes, in Delhi I often opt for a North Indian thali, a good way to taste several dishes in one. I am also trying to perfect my knowledge of biryani, which is a real challenge because every time I go somewhere in India, and I travel a lot, I am told that the local biryani is the best in the country! Having lived for a long time in Asia in countries where street food is an integral part of the local culture, I am naturally interested in Delhi’s street food: lassi, kebab, chole bhature, jalebi, falooda, samosa, butter chicken, nihari, kulfi, and so on, plus of course drinks such as flavoured lassi, banta, jaljeera, and bel ka sharbat. Some come as a surprise, but there’s always novelty.

Is there anything that you or your family would miss once you say goodbye to this city?

My wife and I have always had a taste for exploration and a curiosity for the different. These are two aspects of our life in India in general and in Delhi in particular that we will surely miss when we leave, because this country and this city are inexhaustible sources of new encounters and learning. Personally, I am very interested in what we in the West call Eastern philosophies. I studied Buddhism a lot when I was young, I became interested in Sanskrit, which is as much a form of thought as a language. I am not religious, but there is nothing like living in an environment where these philosophies form the basis of the culture, so that you can immerse yourself in them and try to understand them better. I will miss leaving this cultural environment, but I am still at the beginning of my tenure and India is a country to which one returns again and again, as my wife and I have been doing for forty years.

If you have to introduce Delhi back home, what will you tell them?

Don’t just go by the clichés. Delhi is a wonderful melting pot of cultures and traditions. You’ll find an exceptional range of festivals, cuisines, artistic expressions and architecture. Delhi is the best gateway to Incredible India, not least because of its central location.

What is different in Delhi than in other major capitals or cities you have served in?

Beyond Europe and the United States, where I have also been posted, I have served in several major Asian cities including Beijing, Shanghai, Yangon, Manila, and Bangkok. Each of these cities has its own special characteristics, attractions and disadvantages. None is as multifaceted as Delhi, which is at once an administrative capital, a historical and cultural city, a growing economic centre, a megacity among the most populous in the world. In short, a megalopolis that has all the attributes to become a global city on the scale of India’s ambitions on the international scene. There are very real challenges to be overcome, particularly urban planning and pollution, but Delhi also has many assets. I think would be interesting to develop Delhi’s international image and branding as we live in a world where communication has become vital. During India’s G20 presidency, an ancient concept of India made a lasting impression: Vasudhaiva Kutumbakam or “One Earth, One Family, One Future”. There is surely a mantra to be created to make Delhi’s name resonate better in the world.